CA Junipers - Sherwin Amimoto

Inexpensive California Junipers: Collecting Your Very Own
by Sherwin Amimoto
(rev. 3-29-92 courtesy of Ted Wendorff, retyped 1/10/2007 by Gib Hoxie)

California junipers are found growing in inland deserts and mountains at the 3000 to 5000 ft. elevation. Their natural soil is often coarse, and sandy. They grow in clumps and can reach the height of 25 feet. The estimated age of these mature trees is well over several hundred years. These trees endure a very adverse and hostile environment. Through the years, the snow weighs down and breaks numerous branches. The whipping wind sand blasts the trunk and branches, creating natural jins and sharis. Disease and animals also take part in the creation of a rugged look to the trees. The hot sun and scarce summer water supply in temperatures soaring over 100° F limits and stunts the trees’ growth. But this is why California junipers are so prized for their twists, jins, shari, age and compact foliage.

The natural beauty of the California junipers was recognized early and [they] were first collected in the early 1950s near Palmdale, Tehachapi, and Palm Springs. Now, these areas have been destroyed by development if not brush fires. We are now driving further and hiking farther into rougher terrain to collect these prized specimens.

The best time to collect California junipers is about one month after the first decent rainfall, generally starting in January through June. The Trees will have sufficient water in them to recover from the dormant summer season of no rain. The rains will also soften the soil to make it easier to dig out the trees. To dig out the trees, you’ll need the following items, perseverance, and a little luck. Remember to get written permission from the land owner first. State and Federal lands also require permission even if digging is allowed. With hard work and determination, you can enjoy a lifetime of beauty of the California Juniper.

Supplies and Tools Needed:

1. Back-pack… use one with an external frame and make sure it’s a comfortable fit. Place items 2-15 in the pack.
2. Loppers
3. Folding hand saw… I always take two
4. Shovel… narrow bladed post-hole type
5. Mattock-pick… sharpen cutting edges
6. Moistened sphagnum moss
7. Plastic garbage bags (5-6) to cover the root ball
8. Twine to wrap around the plastic bag
9. Rope to tie tree to pack or 6 bungee cords
10. Canteen of water (min. of 1 quart)
11. Toilet paper for yourself and to mark your way… 1 roll should be enough
12. Band aids or first aid kit
13. Compass (it’s mandatory if you tend to get lost easily)
14. Appropriate clothing… dress in layers, a tee shirt, long sleeve shirt, a waterproof jacket, sweater, hat, sun glasses, heavy boots, and work gloves
15. Lunch… You may get hungry early with the fresh air and physical activity
16. Pickup truck, van or vehicle… use a pickup with a shell or tarp to keep the wind off the trees to prevent dehydration
17. Sprayer with B-1 or water
    [The following handwritten items added anonymously]
18. Wheelbarrow
19. GPS
20. A day laborer

Tips on Collecting California Junipers:

1. Always remember the location of your vehicle. Use large landmarks close by as directionals. Occasionally look back from where you were and look at the landmarks. You can easily get lost if you are only looking immediately around you as you look for trees. Pair off with another person. It also makes the digging go faster with a partner.
2. Don’t dig the first tree that catches your eye; instead, look for the masterpiece. You need to train yourself where to look. Don’t spend much time in the gullies. The trees are too large there due to the plentiful water supply. Mark your best trees with a piece of toilet paper if you wish to come back to them. If you spend your time looking for that masterpiece, you’ll fine it. Some believe that you should dig your first tree and then look for that masterpiece. I used to think this way until I noticed my collection had a number of dreadful trees. No more junk.
3. Dig more than one tree if you can. This will increase the number of trees that will survive.
4. Look for trees that are small enough to manage generally less than 5 inches in diameter. Larger trees take more effort to dig, are heavier to carry down, and require larger bonsai pots which are expensive.
5. Almost all trees grow in clusters. Look at individual trees within the cluster.
6. Upon locating a likely candidate, evaluate it for:
   a. An interesting trunk
   b. Low branches with green leaves relative to the final height of the bonsai
   c. Overall pleasing appearance
7. Determine where its roots are. Shake the tree; if it’s loose, pass it by… it probably has only a single long tap root. If it’s firmly planted, the roots are numerous and these roots are what you need for a successful transplant.
8. Start exploratory digging about 6-10 inches from the trunk. Circle the trunk with a small trench. Are there small dark brown roots? These should be kept since are the important feeder roots. Large roots, ¼" or larger, should be cut with the loppers. Shake the tree occasionally to ascertain where these large roots are. After digging down about 10" begin under-cutting the tree. Don’t spray water on the roots just yet – it will make a muddy mess.
9. Finish digging around the roots. Once the tree is loose, use your gloved hands to remove almost all of the soil. The soil adds weight and tends to break off many roots as it usually falls off anyway. After the soil is removed, coarsely trim the large roots to a root ball less than 20" in diameter. Don’t cut the smaller roots, especially if they are flexible.
10. Lift the tree onto the plastic bag. Take a sip of water and spray it forcefully onto the roots. Wrap wet sphagnum around the roots, wrap the roots with the bag, and tie the bundle with twine.
11. Trim off the branches that aren’t needed. It takes an experienced eye to do this. No more than 75% of the foliage should be removed (leave 25%). On any one branch, there should be green foliage on the terminal end if you plan on keeping that branch alive. Better to be safe if in doubt.
12. Tie the tree securely onto the back pack when you are ready to return back with your treasures. There is nothing like a loose tree to give you trouble as you walk down a steep slope with the wind to whip you around. It’s an experience you’ll never forget.
13. Carry the tree back or place it under the nearest shade. You may want to dig several trees before you head for the car. But mark the shade tree before you go off looking for other trees to dig.
14. Back at the car spray the trees with a B-1 mixture, especially the roots. Keep trees in the shade if the vehicle temperature is high.

Potting the Collected Tree

1. The proper potting mix varies with the collector. Some use ¼" agricultural pumice. Some use straight decomposed granite (DG). Others use a mix of sand, pumice, forest humus, and Perlite. Any mix is OK if it allows free drainage of water.
2. A plastic container is best. Remove the sphagnum moss first. Remember to pack the soil firmly around the roots. Tapping the sides of the pot and using chopsticks will do the trick. Wire or tie the tree securely to prevent the tree from moving around. Spread the used moss over the top of the soil.
3. Place the tree in shade. A green house will also serve nicely. A little morning sun is best. Keeping the pot off the ground is also beneficial to improve drainage and to keep the ground from cooling the pot. A propagation heater to warm the roots may hasten root development.
4. Water the tree and the foliage. On a daily basis mist the foliage and keep the soil damp. A drip sprayer system works well. Do not fertilize until the tree shows signs of growth. This may take anywhere from 1 month, 6 months, to a year. Use cottonseed meal or Miracle Grow. You may foliar feed the trees also by spraying a standard water soluble fertilizer mixture onto the foliage.
5. In the fall move the tree into a location that has adequate air circulation and sunlight.
6. You’d like to have the tree recover and be in good health so it can take the rigors of styling into a bonsai. Feed, water, and give as much sun as is possible once the tree has recovered from the transplanting.

Observing California Juniper Growth Habits:

1. The tree usually will lose some foliage. These will be at first yellow, then turn brown in color. The rest will be green in color. If the tree turns a grayish green, it’s a sign of poor health. Sometimes fungicide, fertilizer or other means may be necessary to correct the problem. Use an insecticide spray if you have termites in the dead wood.
2. The best sign of health is new green shoots on the ends or shoot tips of the foliage. Congratulations on your new tree! After a few months following the appearance of the growth, consider moving the tree to a sunnier location. Be careful for trees have been known to die from moving when their roots were still fragile
3. After one year, the tree should be nearly completely recovered. Continue to feed and water the tree. You may style the tree. But waiting an extra year for recovery should guarantee your success.

Logistics

Club field trips to collect California Junipers often rendezvous in the town of Mojave at Jerry's Restaurant 2343 Highway 58; (661) 824-2771.

Allow at least 1 hour 45 minutes for the 112 mile trip from South Coast Botanic Garden. Find your way out of the L.A. basin to the I-5 North, then take Highway 14 to Mojave, then right (East) on Highway 58. Jerry’s (open 24x7) is at that intersection.